My brother has a venom creeper for the last 3 months and the inner bearing in the C hubs have both been destroyed.

Has anyone else had similar problems?

Or do you know what may cause this?

yeah iv broken them to... just left there in there cause they still spin tho.... goes along with the big lost of stuff iv broken with the creeper.....

what else have you broken?

have broken many of the pins n the cv's, bothdrive shafts, snapped an axel, 2 shocks, 8 sevos, 1 ball joint thing, rear diff broke, so it gt glued, then it strippe the metal gears on on side,, frnt diff did the same, but hassnt broken ince being glued...

He has broken one of the pins in the front cv.. is there an upgrade for them?

What part of the drive shaft is breaking?

What were you doing when you snapped the axle?

8 Servos, what brand of servo were they?

Ive broken heaps of axel pins as well and 1 shock cap keeps popping off. Ive also broken both main driveshafts aswell. There is some axels on rc4wd heres the link.http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/product_inf ... cts_id=784

Hi Brett, The only part I've broken was a axle, it was one of the first batch that was heat treated too much. It broke where the drive pin hole is. I was given new axles and drive pins by Venom in the US after notifying them of the problem. You would have seen at the Coffs comp nothing broke and I don't pussy foot with the creeper.I can't explain your bearing problem as the ones in mine are the originals.
Regards to Sandra and the boys for the New Year and hopefully see you soon.

Dick

Definatly,Thanks Dick, and I hope you have a good one as well.


Some of his issues are probably come fom his young fellow driving it as well.

I think a company makes upgraded outer cvd shafts, but I am not sure if that includes pins? I think the company is called FLM, not sure on that though? They also make lockers

Kieren

Hi i have broken the bearing before dont know why it failed just did ,shattered the rear crownwheel,broke some links,i can't count how many cvd's,and 2 c hubs but in saying this i rebuilt my creeper and got replacments from venom there links(rod ends)are now differant to the ones in kit(i think this is cause they updated alot of the kit after the first few batches) and i drive my creeper hard and it hasn't failed for a long time now

for a replacement pin for the cvd iv been using peices of nails, or pop rivits... cant rember what size tho..... or fast lane machinery do a diffrent cv and someone else does a complete axel i think....

drive shafts... the pin in them rips threw the plastic and then they fall apart... i have traxxas shafts now and there much better... will find a part number...

when the axel snapped i was being silly... car had the bounces and i kept trying to drive up something and the snap...

servos were cheap plastic geared ones, and a tower pro.. have good ones now and havnt had a problem....

Great... Thanks for the reply

ive got one brett the only problem so far is those stupid 2.5mm grub screws coming loose if my .050 driver turns up and i can double grub screw all the cvd's i will bring it on the 31st for a run against my ax10.oh and the bloody locking diffs are a pain in the ass if you can mod a ax10 locker to fit in the diff to solve the prob or buy a spool from the us

modify the ax10 lockers i got some from the us for $10 spent 20 min with a file had no dremel installed no problem no more bloody diffs unlocking

i got a set of FLM lockers and shock bodies in the mail the other day! have built 2 shcoks sofar, but need some diffrent oil in them and still have to build the toehr.. havnt put the lockers in yet tho... but will do..

Some months back, I bought a second hand Creeper, and one of the first problems I picked up on was that the bearings were far too tight a fit over the stub axles. The machining tolerances of the stub axles were simply not fine enough, and the issue was made even worse when the bearings were fully seated into the C-hubs. The axles had to be forced into them, and I'm certain this was the reason my bearings were in such poor condition. I could feel and hear the roughness in them, and even fully dis-assembling, cleaning and re-lubing them could not revive them. They were flat out buggered. So, I took to the axles with some fine emery paper, removed a couple of thou, and along with some nice new sealed bearings, they rotated the way the should have from the word go.

Stika, maybe this was the cause of your brothers problems too.

Jeff.

Could be, I will have to have a look.

I just had my creepers front diff grind every gear in the locker, thinking about seeing if theres some way of puting losi worm drive diffs on it

Why? The CW&P are find the sun gears are poo but with an FML locker they are fine. I've broken the sun gears and locking pins but not the CW&P.

Worn drive's are slow and get hot

I am not sure where ben is getting his imformation from.

Paul as you are aware there are a lot of advantages with losi diffs... i have never had any drama's with the diffs getting hot and for the driving that we do in the comps I ahve more than enough wheel speed.

I have been toying with swaping the gearboxs in my axial and losi just to see how they go... It good to experiment and try new things